THINGS TO DO

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Aquidneck Island is accessible by train, car or bus, and is only 3 1/2 hours from New York City. It is possible to enjoy the island's beauty without having a car, since almost everything is within walking distance, but be prepared to stay a few nights or more, as the city is densely packed (a one-saloon town this surely isn't). If you're coming by Amtrak, you'll disembark at Kingston and take the connecting RIPTA bus to the Gateway Information Center located on America's Cup Avenue. The complex is huge and an excellent resource of information. Stop in and pick up a city map, as well as accommodation, dining and activities pamphlets. All the local tour buses also pick up and drop off in front of the information center, each destination clearly designated by color. This is a good point to orient oneself and plan a busy day's itinerary. Or else, just dive in and start walking south along Thames Street, one of the main thoroughfares.

Undoubtedly, one of the most popular activities in Newport is touring the infamous mansions along Bellevue Avenue. You can take a guided tour or set out on your own, starting at Cliff Walk off Memorial Boulevard and Cliff Avenue. This three-mile walk affords breathtaking scenic views of the Atlantic and spirals down to the famous 40 steps leading from the walk down to the water. Along the way, catch great views of The Astors' Beechwood Mansion, Rosecliff, Marble House and Belcourt Castle. These imposing 60-room estates are jaw-dropping and not to be missed. If you really want to see how the rich and famous live, you can purchase packages from Viking Tours at the information center.

Newport On Foot gives guided tours highlighting local landmarks, ghost stories and graveyards. Call ahead for daily time and meeting place. Group walking tours are also given by the Newport Historical Society, departing daily at 10am from the Museum of Newport History at the Brick Market. If you're not one for walking, you can purchase an all-day pass and ride the Yellow Line trolley to the Newport mansions from Memorial Day till Columbus Day. Cycling isn't a bad way to see the sights either. Wheelsports on Thames Street has mountain bike and moped rentals.

Along America's Cup Avenue, you'll find an overwhelming array of specialty stores, waterfront shops and galleries. If you prefer a large selection of popular, upscale shops, as well as trendy knickknack stores and marine memorabilia, this is where you'll find them. Brick Market Place, a picturesque shopping alley on Upper Thames Street and Washington Square, is Newport's collectible headquarters, with a good choice of music and clothing stores. Bannister's Wharf, built hundreds of years ago by John Bannister, is now the hub of the historic waterfront district and houses more than twenty shops, like Ralph Lauren and Timberland, as well as two of the best restaurants in the city.

Bowen's Wharf, a little ways down, is also a good place for unique pottery, jewelry shops, galleries and outdoor restaurants situated along the harbor. Come watch glassblowers shape molten glass into vases at Thames Glass Gallery. For more eclectic fare, stop by Scrimshanders, between The Black Pearl and Newport Harbor Hotel, specializing in New England maritime folk art and hand engraved scrimshaw jewelry by owner Brian Kiracofe. Baskets and Far Eastern ivory antiques are also for sale. Farther down on Thames Street, is the Armory Antiques and Fine Art Center. Open daily, it represents 125 dealers in all facets of antique and fine art. Aardvark Antiques and Newport Antiques are also good bets for a variety of old things, especially estate jewelry, furniture and coins. The Griffon Shop, located in the Museum of Newport History, is a consignment boutique full of original art and crafts by local artists. Then stop into the museum, at Thames and Washington Square, for an educational tour of the town's historic sites and New England iconography.

Take a breather, stroll across the street to Touro Park and read up on the history of the majestic Old Stone Mill (also known as Viking Tower to locals) in the lovely roundelay. The rock structure is rumored to have been built by Norsemen long before Columbus discovered the New World.

Up the road, you'll run into the Newport Art Museum on Bellevue Avenue. Founded in 1912, it's a major example of late Victorian architecture and houses both modern and historic collections. Right next door is the Redwood Library and Athenaeum. Built in 1748, it's an impressive display of neoclassical architecture, and is also the oldest library in the United States.

Keep walking down towards Memorial Boulevard, make a left on Spring Street and you'll come upon St. Mary's Church, one of the oldest Catholic parishes in Rhode Island. It is also where the late President Kennedy and Jackie Bouvier were married in 1953, and still draws visitors from around the world. If you've got your walking shoes on, head over to the aptly named Farewell Street (flanked by a tiny cemetery on both sides) and corner of Marlborough, where you'll encounter a strange little white house atop a hill. No, you're not imagining things, the Great Friends Meeting House, built by Quakers in 1699, is a living testament to 205 years of town history. The oldest operational tavern, red-shingled Whitehorse Tavern, is just across the street. It's also a restaurant, so feel free to grab a bite before heading on.

It's hard to deny the draw of the sea, and wherever you turn there's bound to be a boat blocking your view. If beaches and water sports are your main aim, then you've found nirvana. For the adventurous traveler, there's sea kayaking, SCUBA diving, fishing and sail boarding info at most wharves along Thames Street, including ticket booths for charters and guided sails. Rent a day-sailer from Sail Newport, located in Newport Sailing Center at Fort Adams State Park, with or without lessons. A one-hour guided harbor tour from "A Day on the Bay" departs from Bowen's Wharf July through Labor Day, or sail the Narragansett on The Adirondack, a 2-hour schooner tour departing daily from the Newport Yachting Center.

Historic Fort Adams, at Fort Adams State Park, is the largest coastal fortification in the U.S. Located across Newport Harbor, off Harrison Avenue, the park is also home to the famous Newport Jazz Festival and Folk Festival. Bring the kids and explore the grounds of this 80-acre park, open year-round, with wonderful sunset views and idyllic benches. Sit and enjoy ice lemonade from the truck parked outside the campgrounds. If the idea of climbing fort walls leaves you in the dust, check out The Museum of Yachting and Eisenhower's summerhouse located nearby.

Besides the stunning views off Ocean Drive spiraling along the western and southern tips of Aquidneck Island, there are various beaches scattered along the way for a fun day in the sun. First Beach, a.k.a. Easton's Beach, stretches along Memorial Boulevard, and has special events on Tuesday evenings, including Family Nights. There are public facilities, as well as several restaurants and bars that cater to "daytrippers and beach bums." Second Beach is the most crowded, as it provides the only sand dunes in the area. Parking can cost you from $10-$15, depending on the season. People who feel like hiking can explore the 21 shoreline acres of Sachuest Point, known as a fisherman's paradise. Third Beach is about three miles down and far more secluded, divided into public and private areas, and offers scenic views of the rolling hills of the Sakonnet River.

The New England Aquarium Exploration Center is on Memorial Boulevard in the rotunda at Easton's Beach. On your way to the beach, first stop in and peek at moon jellies, periwinkles, shy hermit crabs and other native species part of the weekly interactive exhibits and live presentations. Open from May-Labor Day.

Located on Third Beach Road in Middletown (a few minutes from downtown by car or the 63 Purple Line bus), the Norman Bird Sanctuary, a 450-acre wildlife refuge, offers seven miles of hiking trails, fields and open woodlands. Enjoy the sweeping view of the ocean from Hanging Rock. There are free guided bird walks every Sunday morning at 8am spring-fall.

You'll also find Newport Vineyards in Middletown. With their reputable following, it may be worth the minor schlep for a good Merlot. Tours and tastings are daily at 1 and 3pm, seven days a week.

LODGING

If choosing to stay for more than a couple of days, I recommend one of the larger seaside inns close to the beach or harbor, perfect for vacationing families. The Inn At Newport Beach is easy walking distance from Cliff Walk, and comes with complimentary breakfast and ocean views. Rates start at $89. The Harborside Inn, at Christie's Landing, is very popular with families because of its proximity to the center of town. Complimentary breakfast, afternoon tea and pastries round out the experience. Rates change seasonally. The Hotel Viking is large and graciously equipped with a fine spa on premises. The Seawhale Motel, on Aquidneck Avenue, is a cozy motel ideally situated along the water, near First Beach and the mansions. Private decks and waterside views are available. Rates range from $55-$120, depending on the season.

For couples on a romantic weekend getaway, one of Newport's historic inns or B&Bs would be an ideal choice, like the Victorian Ladies Inn. There's a bevy to choose from, and depending on how close you'd like to be to town or the beaches, there's an inn for every fancy. Stella Maris Inn (left), on Washington Street, is just a few feet from the bay on a quiet stretch near the historic "Point" district, a few minutes from downtown. With complimentary breakfast, private baths, fireplaces and harbor views, it gets filled up fast, so call way ahead for reservations. Doubles are $120 and up. If you've got a bundle to blow on a sumptuous weekend, the historic Francis Malbone House on Thames is a good place to do it. An imposing white colonial circa 1760, famous for its Jacuzzis, gourmet breakfast and king beds, call ahead and pray for a reservation.

Either Spring Street Inn or nearby The Artful Lodger are also recommended. Both are situated along a picturesque, quiet street with nearby art galleries and shops. Close to Bellevue and Thames, their lovely rooms are affordable and sweet.

Located just 3 miles from Historic Newport, but in the Center of the "Corporate" district, the renovated Courtyard Middletown/Newport awaits with 148 "new" guest rooms that surround a beautifully landscaped courtyard.

Just outside Newport is the Eden Manor, a Victorian inn just minutes away from local beaches, Old Wakefield, and the University of Rhode Island.

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DINING

The dining options are plentiful, choices abound around every corner along Thames Street. If in doubt, choose seafood and you'll never steer wrong. We recommend Scales and Shells (pictured left) on Lower Thames, voted the "Best Seafood in Newport." Try the stuffed calamari or lobster fra diavolo, and see the difference a fresh catch makes. For slightly more upscale dining, Le Bistro on Bowen's Wharf, has a nice variety of fresh local seafood and over 140 wine labels to choose from (reservations are required). If you can garner a reservation at Clarke Cooke House on Bannister Wharf, consider yourself among the elite. One of the most lauded restaurants in town for its wonderful food and sky bar, dinner here will also break the bank, unless you opt to eat at their informal dining space, The Candy Store.

For cozier, more affordable shindigs, try Puerini's on Memorial Boulevard, a favorite gathering place for Newporters, offering fresh takes on linguini marsala and stuffed swordfish. I also highly recommend The Salvation CafÈ at 140 Broadway, tucked away in a quieter part of town, but well worth the trip. Its inviting outdoor deck and alternative Thai dishes are a feast for the senses. Bishops's On 4th is a boxcar diner great for a quick, satisfying breakfast, and for midday lunch fare, pop into the Wharf Pub and Restaurant on Bowen's Wharf, and try a cup of chowder, fried clams or a sandwich on the cheap.

You can experience Newport from a romantic and luxurious dining coach as you travel along Narrangansett Bay. Newport Dinner Trains depart every morning and afternoon from America's Cup Avenue. Luncheon, dinner, murder mystery tour or wine tours are available, depending on your mood and budget.

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NIGHTLIFE

The restaurants and bars are hopping way past midnight along the wharves on Thames. Step out and enjoy the nightly harborside entertainment at Christie's or J.J.'s Oasis, featuring live bands every Friday and Saturday night. The Boat, on Waites Wharf, a converted cargo boat that looks to be on its last legs, is actually a jumping bar and nightclub catering to a younger, fraternity crowd. Across the way you'll find The West Deck, a trendy local nightspot where you can drink and listen to music all night long right on the bay. But be warned, the decibel levels may damage your eardrums. A quieter, hipper version is The Landing, a restaurant/tavern with live music right behind 22 Bowen's.

The Newport Blues CafÈ on Upper Thames, home to the Newport Blues Festival every August, hosts live blues acts almost every night, including a jazz brunch on the weekends. The Newport Repertory Theater usually features a different long running production every few months, Friday-Sunday, at Equality Park Place.

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TRANSPORTATION

BUS:

Bonanza Bus is now running a direct route from Port Authority to Newport's Gateway Information Center.

Travel Time: 3 hours, 40 minutes.

Schedule: Leaves NYC daily and departs Newport daily.

TRAIN:

Take Amtrak to Kingston. At Kingston Station, take RIPTA #64 Newport-URI bus, which leaves Kingston roughly every couple of hours from about 9 am to 7pm on weekdays, only three times on Saturdays and not at all on Sundays and Holidays.

Travel Time: Amtrak: About 3 hours. RIPTA: Around 1 1/2 hours.

Call 800-USA-RAIL for more information.

CAR:

Follow I-95 North to 138 East (Rhode Island exit 3A). Follow the signs for Newport.Ý Follow Route 138 for approximately 15 miles (Route 138 East will overlap Route 1 North for a short while).Ý Continue over the Jamestown and Newport Bridges ($2.00 toll).Ý Take the first ramp off the bridge. Ý At the end of the ramp take a right.Ý At the second set of lights take another right.Ý This is America's Cup Avenue, a major thoroughfare.

Travel Time: About 3 1/2 hours.

CAR RENTAL:

Hertz Rent a Car is located at 105 Broadway. 401-846-1645.

LOCAL TRANSPORTATION

BUS:

RIPTA (Rhode Island Public Transit Authority) has useful routes for visitors. 62 Red Line: Gateway Visitor's Center down America's Cup and Thames (downtown area) to Fifth Ward; 63 Purple Line: Gateway Visitor's Center out West Main to Stop&Shop and Ames in Middletown; 61 Orange Line: Gateway Visitor's Center to Second Beach; 67 Yellow Line (it's actually a trolley): Gateway Visitor's Center to Bellevue and back.

TAXI:

Cozy Cabs 401-846-2500. The standard statewide fare is $2 for the first half-mile and 25 cents of each 1/8 mile afterward.

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TRAVEL TIPS

The best time to visit Newport is in off-season, when the humidity and summer crowds die down. As is true with most seaside towns, the prices for dining and accommodations go down considerably, some places see as much as a 50% reduction in their standard fees. That's good news for the budget-minded traveler, and the idyllic island-hopper craving fresh seafood and a taste of history.

LINKS

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MAP

For a detailed map of Newport, please click here.