Schuyler County, NY—
Weekend Getaway
by Patricia Ryan

Native American lore has it that the Finger Lakes were formed when the Great Spirit laid his hand upon the earth, blessing this region with natural beauty and bounty. The beauty and bounty that the natives spoke of still exists today, right in Schuyler (pronounced SKY-ler) County!

About a four-hour drive from midtown Manhattan, Schuyler County is situated at the south end of Seneca Lake, the largest of the Finger Lakes. Although one of the smallest counties in New York State at a mere 329 square miles, it packs a big punch for its size. Over one-third of it is designated as public land for outdoor recreation and almost two-thirds are covered in forests. Scenic views abound - carved from the glaciers that once covered New York State. As you drive around the sparkling lake, the inland scenery is just as awe-inspiring with its display of rolling hills, rock formations, hardwood forests, flowering meadows, and majestic waterfalls that seem to pop up out of nowhere.

Before the days of the automobile, the area was abundant with grand hotels which doubled as health spas, offering healing qualities of the area's salts, as well as magnetic and sulphur springs. (The salt, a remnant of a sea that once covered vast parts of this area, is still mined today by two major salt companies on the lake.)

Named for Philip Schuyler, a General in the American Revolution and later a US Senator from New York State, the county is full of rich history, and was even home to several sites on the route of the Underground Railroad.

Today, it's the perfect getaway destination for romantic weekends and family adventures!

 
  THINGS TO DO

A car-free vacation is feasible here -- especially if you're staying in the new Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel (opening in Summer 2008) which is right across the parking lot from the harbor, or if you're staying right in Watkins Glen itself, and don't mind a little walking. You'll need to take the bus to Ithaca and then hire a taxi to Watkins Glen. There's plenty to do right on Seneca Lake, and there are many wine tours available - which is smart regardless of whether or not you have a car with you! It's true that in order to see some of the attractions described below, like Watkins Glen State Park, Watkins Glen International, or She-Qua-Ga Falls, we suggest going by car to make sure you pack in all the attractions!

LAND OF THE TUMBLING WATERS
It's easy to see why Watkins Glen State Park is the most popular of all the Finger Lakes parks. At two miles long (with cliffs that are 200-feet high, carved through time by water) the hike through the narrow gorge along Glen Creek is almost spiritual. With 19 breathtaking waterfalls, deep pools, and stone bridges created so that you can enjoy the views, the State Park understandably made Reserve America's "Top 25 Scenic Views" list and was described as having a "reputation for leaving visitors spellbound." A shuttle bus will take you from one end of the park to the other so you can walk the 1-1/2-mile trail, with over 800 stone steps and an elevation gain of over 500 feet. Guided walks are also available.

she qua ga fallsA backdrop for the village of Montour Falls, She-Qua-Ga Falls (left) sits at the head of Main Street. She-Qua-Ga Falls (which means "Tumbling Waters") splendid beauty is a reminder of how the land that the Senecas called home, and the land of those that followed, can co-exist in harmony.

Other waterfalls located in Montour Falls include Aunt Sarah's Falls on State Route 14 and Deckertown Falls on Catlin Street, off of South L'Hommedieu Street.

Excelsior Glen Falls on State Route 414 in Watkins Glen offers a challenging hike. Hector Falls, located just north of Watkins Glen on State Route 414, is quite a site as it flows not only down the cliff, but under the road and into the lake.

THESE BOOTS ARE MADE FOR WALKING (AND HIKING!)
Finger Lakes National Forest, the only National Forest in New York State, offers 16,000 acres of beauty to enjoy, with over 30 miles of trails meandering through forest, open fields, wildflowers, cow pastures, and even you-pick blueberry patches.

Bring your hiking boots and binoculars and get back to nature by visiting Texas Hollow State Forest, which is great for bird-watching.

Sugar Hill State Forest, meanwhile, is perfect for hiking, biking, picnicking, bird and wildlife viewing, horseback riding, snowmobiling, cross-country skiing, and hunting. Covering over 12,000 acres just west of Watkins Glen, this park offers spectacular views and miles of forests. Catch a glimpse of the wildlife in the area!

Three railroads once transversed Schuyler County, along with a canal, but only one railroad operates today. The result of a remarkable program that's turned the old rails into trails, the Catharine Valley Trail runs largely on portions of abandoned Northern Central Railroad and Chemung Canal Towpath corridors. When complete, it will measure 12 miles long and connect Watkins Glen State Park with Mark Twain State Park in Horseheads, NY.

The path is named for Catharine (pronounced Cath-a-REEN) Montour, who not only married a Seneca chief but became the leader of the Shequagua village after he died. In 1779, she led her people to Canada when Sullivan's Army burned 30 or 40 log houses of the village to keep them from joining the British to fight against the Patriots. Catharine later came back to the land she loved and lived here until her death in 1804. A memorial in her honor sits in a wooded grove just off the Cook and Genesee Street section of the Catharine Valley Trail in Montour Falls.

Finger Lakes Trail, an amazing footpath for hikers, stretches 560 miles from Pennsylvania to the New York border up to the Catskill Forest Preserve. Forty-eight of those miles make their way through Schuyler County, winding their way through several state parks and wildlife management areas. Starting at Watkins Glen State Park, the Queen Catharine Marsh Trail, a branch of the Finger Lakes Trail, creates a nine-mile loop.

Located at the southern end of Seneca Lake, between Watkins Glen and Montour Falls, the Queen Catharine Marsh is a unique natural area. The 1,000-acre complex is also called the Catharine Creek Wildlife Management Area, and for good reason. A virtual playground for anyone who loves nature, the marsh teems with wildlife of all species, including muskrats, turtles, ducks, beavers, deer, and great blue herons. From birdwatching to fishing, hunting, trapping, kayaking, and nature study, the marsh has a lot to offer.

COME SAIL AWAY
Seneca Lake (left) is the Queen of the Finger Lakes at thirty-eight miles long and over 600-feet deep. The area was known as the "Land of the Lake Guns" by the Senecas, because of the strange sound of thunder that seems to come from the bottom of the lake itself. In the early part of the 20th century, people used water from the lake in their cars because the lake hardly ever freezes -- on account of the numerous active springs in the lake bed.

Captain Bill's Seneca Lake Cruises offers dining cruises as well as tours on the 1930s-era Stroller IV. But if you're looking for a day of gentle sailing across the tranquil waters of Seneca Lake while learning the history of the area, Captain Terry Stewart of Seneca Sailing Adventures is your man. Captain Terry and his First Mate Lisa will take you on a 2-1/2-hour tour of Seneca Lake aboard the Lee Sea Anne, a sailboat that accommodates up to six passengers.

The crew is very knowledgeable about the area and will take you on a guided tour past points of interest such as "The Painted Rocks" while recounting local lore. (Captain Terry himself offers many amazing little-known facts about Seneca Lake.) A "Cruise and Snooze" package allows you to let the gentle rocking of the water lull you to sleep as you spend the night right on the boat! (Get a little sea sick? That's okay too. Stop by and see Captain Terry at the harbor and he'll be happy to share his stories and give you a tour of his boat while it's docked.)

Jet ski and boat rentals are also available at the Anchor Inn & Marina on Salt Point Road in Watkins Glen.

HOOKED ON FISHING?
If you are looking to throw a hook in the water, Schuyler County offers some of the best fishing in New York State, and offers many "fishing holes." You can fish right off the dock at the Harbor, or head on over to Catharine Creek, where there are 29 different species swimming around in the rich waters adjacent to the marsh. It's said that giant carp up to a yard long make their home in the waters of Seneca Lake and Queen Catharine's Marsh. Other fish native to the area are large- and smallmouth bass, northern pike, landlocked salmon, pickerel, brown trout, lake trout, rainbow trout, smelt, and pan fish.

Waneta and Lamoka Lakes cover 165 acres of marshland and open water. A parking area and boat launch is located on County Road 23 in the town of Tyrone, making for easy access to the wetlands. The land is still abundant in the deer, turkey, squirrels, and rabbits that the prehistoric Lamoka tribe once hunted here.

GO SPEED RACER GO!
Known as the home of American road racing, Watkins Glen International is a world-renowned road course and one of only two road course tracks in America that hosts both NASCAR and Indy Car races (the other being Infineon in Sonoma, CA). The NASCAR NEXTEL Cup Series Centurion Boats race at Watkins Glen was named the best race of 2007 by Sports Illustrated magazine, and the raceway proudly proclaims that "It's Racing, only Twisted!"

In May of each year, hundreds of cars line up to take a few laps on this world-famous road course to raise money for Kyle Petty's Victory Junction charity, but you can drive your own car around this world-famous track anytime from May thru October! "Thunder Road Tours" start at noon each day by appointment only and allow you to take 3 laps around the track for just $25! You'll experience the ups and downs, twists and turns as the track elevation changes around hairpin curves and get an idea of what it must be like for the drivers who take those turns at 145 ‚ 195 miles per hour!

With over 2,000 acres of land, Watkins Glen International offers much more than racing; concerts, wine and cheese tastings, even a McDonalds Play Land area for the kids. A family-friendly race track, the Speedway admits children 12 and under in for free, except on NASCAR weekend, which offers free admission to kids 5 and under and a reduced admission for kids ages 6-12. (Reserved seating prices are a little higher, and kids must pay for reserved seats.)

You can spend the whole weekend right at the raceway! Reserved camping spots are already sold out by early spring, but camping spots are still available on a first-come, first-served basis. Campers return year after year, enjoying the friendships they've made over the years with their fellow race fans, but also finding that there's always a new experience!

Watkins Glen International also offers one of the biggest showcases of New York State wines when it hosts the International Wine Festival each July. You can taste over 500 wines from over 75 wineries while enjoying the scenic views Watkins Glen International has to offer. Enjoy live cooking demonstrations, attend a culinary class, or just kick back, relax, and enjoy the live music while you chow down on the wide sampling of gourmet foods. Educational wine seminars are also available.

The International Motor Racing Research Center, on Decatur Street in Watkins Glen, preserves the heritage of motor racing, housing approximately 2500 rare and reference books on the sport, as well as hundreds of periodicals, programs, manuscript collections, historic scrapbooks, and many other motor racing related items. The Center is open to anyone interested in the sport, for professional or personal reasons.

Finally, as you walk the streets of Watkins Glen, be sure to look down at the ground when you're in the area of N. Franklin. You can read all the markers on the Drivers Walk of Fame, which honors all the talented drivers who have competed at Watkins Glen since 1948!

GOOD WINE MAKES FOR A "GRAPE" TIME!
Sheltered in a valley created by hills and gorge walls, Seneca Lake creates its own micro-climate which is the perfect setting to grow grapes that are not only hardy, but also allows for the cultivation of more delicate varieties such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir. The Seneca Lake Wine Trail consists of over 30 wineries around Seneca Lake, and you'll be sure to find a wine to suit everyone's taste.

The Seneca Harbor Wine Center is housed in a 19th-century brick building, a former foundry, right on the waterfront. Renovated by the Pleasant Valley Wine Company, it boasts a horseshoe-shaped bar made by skilled craftsmen using the oak and cypress from old wine casks.

Glenora Wine Cellars, located on State Route 14 in Dundee, offers a wide variety of both dry and semi-dry wines, along with sweet and semi-sweet blends, fruit and grape wine-blends, and sparkling wines. They even have a kid's corner for the younger set who aren't quite old enough for wine tasting yet. You can enjoy a picnic there, satisfy your hunger in their on site restaurant, Veraisons Restaurant or stay at the Inn at Glenora.

In 1951, Frank Stamp abandoned his position as a dentist in Maryland and moved his family to Lakewood Farm, a rundown peach and apple farm on the west side of Seneca Lake. The next summer he started planting grapes, and the result became the Lakewood Vineyards. The winery now produces wines from three families of grapes that were once used for commercial grape production until they pressed the grapes for their first vintage in 1988. The family welcomes you to enjoy their wines! There is also a picnic area and play area for the kids.

Hazlitt 1852 Winery is a winery that isn't afraid to let its hair down! Enjoy their world class wines on a bar stool in their cozy tasting room! Check out the antique tools and memorabilia while tapping your foot to the lively music that's always playing. Besides their wines, Hazlitt 1852 Winery also offers a line of sweet hot sauces called Red Cat-Tastrophe, which includes their Red Cat Wine as one of its ingredients and claims to have "tails flaming in the litter box!" A picnic table area is available, as well as banquet and conference facilities.

HOW ABOUT SOME CHEESE WITH THAT WINE?
Agriculture is Schuyler County's leading economic engine, with over 400 full and part-time farms covering 35% of the county. Agri-tourism allows visitors to experience life on working farms and agricultural enterprises directly. Schuyler County offers a large number of agri-tourism sites that also sell their products, which include everything from maple syrup, to jams, jellies and juices, honey, fruits and vegetables, and even berries.

Located just outside Odessa, the Sunset View Creamery is a 100-year-family-owned farm offering tours and, of course, cheeseÖ lots of cheese! Established in 1905, the farm is now run by the fourth and fifth-generations of the original Hoffman family who settled in this area. Tours are by appointment only.

Located between Watkins Glen and Ithaca in Trumansburg, Finger Lakes Farmstead Cheese, offers two kinds of cheeses. "Schuyler" is made in the Dutch farmstead and Gouda tradition, while "Red Meck" is a red-washed French-style cheese similar to the original Muenster.

Other farm-related attractions include the Skyland Gallery & Cafe which boasts a 3,000-square-foot Art Barn showcasing the work of over 300 local artists, nestled among stone-walled gardens where you can cut your own bouquets or walk through their labyrinth. Get a real feel for the country by feeding the goats, sheep, and chickens, or feed yourself at their Garden Room Cafe, which features a vast variety of desserts along with light lunches and dinners. This wonderful complex also has an in-house pottery studio where you can watch a potter spin a lump of clay into a work of art.

Set amongst the rolling hills and forests and situated on 175 acres, New York Farm Sanctuary (left), cares for hundreds of animals and offers a very unique visitor center called the "People Barn." Finally, Arcangeli Farm Country Critters allows an up close look at some unique animals, including miniature horses, llamas, emu, reindeer, miniature pigmy goats, peacocks, and more! They offer tours, picnic and party space, wagon rides and an incredible corn maze in the fall.

GO GREEN!
Take a bite out of the big apple! A big juicy organic apple, that is! Good Groceries on 4th Street in Watkins Glen offers a great variety of organic foods and locally grown produce as well as toiletries and other "green" good-for-the-earth items.

The Watkins Glen Farmer's Market, located at scenic LaFayette Park, is open Fridays from the end of May until the end of October. Montour Falls Farmers Market is open on Thursdays and Saturdays at the Montour Falls Fireman's Field. Reisinger's Apple Country is another good option for apple and pumpkin picking.

SHOPPING IS A SPORT TOO
Schuyler County has NO TAX on clothing and footwear under $110 per item! Take advantage of these great savings by saving even more at the Famous Brands Outlet on N. Franklin Street in Watkins Glen. Offering quality clothing, footwear, hunting wear and gifts and accessories at affordable prices, it's the place to shop for brand names for less. They even have a bargain basement (literally!) for extra savings.

Also located on N. Franklin Street, Putty Jug Antiques is one of several antiques stores in the area with a wide variety of treasures from the past. Larry Novinsky, the owner, offers a wide variety of heirlooms, unique jewelry, and even the antiques of tomorrow: modern souvenirs! Other antique stores include Guild Brothers Antiques & Gifts on Main Street in Montour Falls.

ARTS AND CULTURE
Oh Susannah's Quilts & Gifts, located on 4th, just off of N. Franklin Street in Watkins Glen, has an incredible selection of 100% cotton fabrics, as well as quilt kits. They offer instructions and classes for those who want to learn the art of quilting.

Knitting is making a comeback as one of the most popular hobbies, and Finger Lakes Fibers (left), also on 4th Street, has a great variety of luxurious yarns, natural fibers, and hand knitting supplies. They also carry locally spun and dyed yarns as well as unique fibers from all around the world. Stop in anytime for individual knitting and spinning instruction. While you're there, you can also pick up a book or two from their wide selection, or a basket or bag to carry those knitting projects around. Graceful Arts Fiber Studio in Hector also offers a wide variety of specialty yarns.

FYI: Finger Lakes Fibers
also offers classes around your scheduled stay! Create your own knitting getaway!

World-class art can also be found in Watkins Glen at art galleries like Artaj on Franklin Street and the Linda McIntyre Art Gallery on Porter Street. Christian Thirion, a master glassblower, displays his stunning works of art at his nearby Glass Art Gallery. His colorful wave series of vases and bowls are amazing in and of themselves, but his new Lighting Features Series of chandeliers will simply take your breath away. Mimicking the waterfalls that cover the area, these lighting fixtures gracefully flow and curve, creating quite an awesome display.

SEARCH FOR TREASURE
Grab your GPS and head out to look for treasure! Geo-caching is an exciting and entertaining adventure for the Indiana Jones in everybody, minus the bad guys trying to kill you! Caches are hidden all over the world by organizations and individuals who then post coordinates that will lead you to these little treasures.

In a "Pay It Forward" way, once you find a cache, you can take what's in it, but you should leave something in its place for the next treasure hunter. As of early 2008 dozens of caches were hidden within 10 miles of Watkins Glen, and hundreds within 30 miles. Why not spend the day not only viewing the gorgeous scenery, but also hunting for a few trinkets of treasure along the way!

See more info on activities and businesses

 
  LODGING

With over three dozen bed and breakfasts, numerous hotels, vacation rentals and campgrounds, Schuyler County has a wealth of lodging options!

Slated to open in Summer 2008, the Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel is situated on the south end of the lake, just steps away from the harbor. Trying to bring back the splendor of the resorts of days-gone-by, this grand hotel offers 104 guest rooms and 6 suites, a full restaurant and bar overlooking the lake, indoor swimming pool, state-of-the-art fitness center and Jacuzzi, along with 6,000 square feet of banquet and conference space.

While there are many bed-and-breakfasts to choose from in the Watkins Glen area, the Sunset On Seneca (left) is a B&B right on the lake. Owners Donna and Frank Davis have posted a sign that hangs above their front door that claims "Enter as Strangers, Leave as Friends," and there's much truth in that. After spending just a few minutes with this friendly couple, who are both retired from the Air Force, you feel as if you're visiting relatives. Breakfast is served with freshly cut fruit and real maple syrup and is made to order, with the owners making special runs to the grocery store to pick up any needed ingredients that they might not have on hand.

Their home, built in 1991 specifically to be a B&B and take advantage of the spectacular views of the lake, has three bedrooms with private baths. The Green Room offers a spectacular bathroom that includes stone walls and a waterfall shower. You can also relax in the hot tub on the back deck, overlooking the lake. Wireless Internet and a complimentary touch screen computer ensure that you can check your all-important email messages. Just off the back deck is the dock that has 2 boat lifts, 2 jet-ski ramps, and plenty of room to dock a boat. It also has a fun slide that will dump those that are brave enough to go down it right into the waters of Seneca Lake.

If you feel like having a place all to yourself, a number of vacation rental properties are also available in the area.

Perhaps you feel like roughing it by spending some time camping. Numerous sites throughout the county offer water and electrical hookups as well as cabin rentals. Cool-Lea Camp, on Kayuta Lake in Odessa, just minutes from Watkins Glen, offers fishing, swimming, canoes and rowboats, a basketball court, game room, playground, boat launch, dock privileges, and walking trails, as well as a gift shop and a place to buy camping supplies. The KOA is another great option for campers and rvers. It's perfect for families!

See more info on lodging


  DINING

For those of you touring the wineries, you can also have a meal with your wine. The Ginny Lee Cafe at Wagner Winery, Red Newt Cellars & Bistro, Knapp Vineyard and Restaurant, and Veraisons Restaurant all offer dining experiences right on the scene of the vineyards.

Looking for a place to eat right on the waterfront? Try the Seneca Harbor Station (left) or the Village Marina Bar & Grill, both located right at the head of the lake.

Curly's Family Restaurant on Route 14 in Watkins Glen offers good old American meals at a fair price, and service with a smile - as does The Roosterfish Brewpub. But if you're craving a slice of New York-style pizza, Jerlando's Pizza Co. on Franklin Street is the place to go, and they also have a "Ristorante" that serves up a big Italian meal.

Looking for a bit of Chinese food? House Of Hong, also in the village of Watkins Glen, fills the bill, and Mr. Chicken on S. Franklin Street has the best barbeque in the area.

See more info on dining

 
  NIGHTLIFE

GOOD FOR ALL THAT "ALES" YOU

If wine isn't your thing, there are several local pubs in the area, serving a variety of cold beer and other potent potables.

And after a long day of wine tasting, why not kick back and enjoy a long night of beer tasting! The Rooster Fish Brewpub offers a selection of seven different ales that are crafted right in Watkins Glen at their micro-brewery. All of the ales are made using organic American malts, with hops brought in from Yakima, Washington. They also have live music on most weekends.

The Lake Country Players Community Theater presents a youth musical each summer, followed by a full-scale musical in November each year. Performances are held in the local school auditoriums.

For more ideas of Night Life destinations in the area, check out our Steuben County and Corning profile.

See more info on nightlife


  TRANSPORTATION

AIR: The nearest airport is the Elmira/Corning Regional Airport, which is about a 45-minute drive from Watkins Glen. It is serviced by Continental, US Airways, and Northwest Airlink. The airports in Rochester and Syracuse are both about 1-1/2 hour away from Watkins Glen.

TAXI: For taxi service to and from the Elmira/Corning Regional Airport, the bus stop or other local destinations, visitors can try Terp's Enterprises at 607-795-4426; Bill's Taxi at 607-731-8880; or Vets One Taxicab at 607-962-8294.

CAR: NYC is approximately 250 miles from Watkins Glen. Take I-80 West to I-380, I-81 north to SR-17 west, exiting at RT-14 north. Follow local roads to SR-14 north. Turn left on CR-12 and follow for approximately 6 miles to SR-414. Bear left onto Sr-14, which will bring you right into Watkins Glen.

CAR RENTAL: Avis (800-331-1212) and Hertz (800-654-3131) rent from the Elmira-Corning Regional Airport. They are both also located in Rochester and Syracuse. National Car Rental (607-272-2575) and Enterprise (607-275-9000) rent from Ithaca.

BUS: As part of its daily service, Adirondack Trailways (800-776-7548) stops in Ithaca, which is about a half hour drive from Watkins Glen. Short Line Bus Lines (800-631-8405) offers daily service from New York City to Ithaca and Elmira.

See more info on transportation


  LINKS

Schuyler County Chamber of Commerce


  MAP

For a detailed map of Schuyler County, click here


  WEATHER


All photos courtesy of the Schuyler County Chamber of Commerce, except: New York Farm Sanctuary, courtesy of the New York Farm Sanctuary; Finger Lakes Fibers, courtesy of Finger Lakes Fibers; Seneca Harbor Station, courtesy of Seneca Harbor Station; Rooster Fish Brewery, courtesy of the Rooster Fish Brewery. Sunset (top), Seneca Lake, and Sunset on Seneca images courtesy of Patricia Ryan.

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