SARATOGA SPRINGS, NY — WEEKEND GETAWAY
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by Krista Garcia

Forget reading, writing and 'rithmetic: Saratoga Springs, NY will convert you to the three H's. They'll have you know their city is about Health, History and Horses (with an emphasis on the latter). It's these basic qualities that form the foundation of the town.

Saratoga Springs, NY gained renown as a resort town in the late 19th century, earning the nickname "Queen of Spas." And to this day, the famed mineral spring spas continue to hold appeal. But it's during racing season that the city really heats up, and the summer population swells with the temperature. Thoroughbred racing never fails to pack them in.

Once a rollicking playground for the moneyed, the town's high-rolling reputation still rings true to some degree. Traditionally, Saratoga Springs has been a stomping ground for well-heeled part-time residents, but things are changing. You no longer need to be a socialite to have fun, and a summer visit isn't even required to appreciate the town fully.

Located 30 miles north of Albany NY at the base of the Adirondacks, Saratoga Springs is about three to four hours from New York City, depending on mode of transportation. It's entirely possible to rise early, catch a race, dine in style, then head back to the city. But a weekend excursion is recommended to savor Saratoga Springs in the leisurely manner that it deserves.

  THINGS TO DO

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Almost every attraction in town is easily accessible by foot or public transportation, and during the summer, by trolley. Broadway is the main thoroughfare, and this would be an ideal place to start your day.

In the summer, you'll find a Chamber of Commerce information booth at Congress Park in the heart of town. It wouldn't be a bad idea to pop into the Saratoga Springs Visitor Center (pictured left) any time of year. They can arm you with all the help you'll need, from informative handouts to shared bits of local color. Historic walking tours are available in July and August.

In fact, that's just one of many walking tours in town. Another, sponsored by the Saratoga Springs Preservation Foundation, showcases historic homes. If you like taking matters into your own hands, brochures detailing self-guided routes are available for attractions like Congress Park and Saratoga Spring's East Side neighborhood.

Walking is a fine pastime, but the odds are trotting and galloping is the real reason you came to Saratoga Springs. Whether you're a gambler or a gawker, there's a place for you at the track. Serious race aficionados and people-watchers rub elbows at these equine exhibitions. The big draw from late July through Labor Day is thoroughbred racing at the nation's oldest track, The Saratoga Race Course on Union Avenue, a bit southwest of city center. Count on at least a ten-block walk from downtown, or catch CDTA Bus on Broadway and give your legs a rest.

If you just want to see the sights and watch the horses warm up, show up early when admission is free (7 to 9:30 am) and take part in a buffet breakfast. The races take place every day except Tuesday, and gates open at 11 am (10:30 am on weekends). Amateur wagerers (and those who'd just like to learn a thing or two) can benefit from free seminars at Siro's Restaurant (on Lincoln Street at the southern border of the track) hosted by the Daily Racing Form.

If you can't make it during peak season, don't fret. Saratoga Gaming and Raceway is a year-round affair. Just blocks below Union Avenue, they have harness racing, and gaming options galore.

Horses aren't the only show in town. Naturally-occurring carbonated springs have been a Saratoga flagship for ages. Congress Park (pictured left) has a number of springs, a fountain, Canfield Casino (which now houses the Historical Society) and an Italian garden. High Rock Park off Broadway also has springs, and from May to October a farmers market is on site.

Spa State Park contains 2,200 acres of land, which includes Roosevelt Baths - a place where you can indulge in massages, mineral baths, and other relaxing treatments. The park also contains the Saratoga Performing Arts Center, National Museum of Dance, Saratoga Automobile Museum, two golf courses, two public pools, trails for hiking or cross-country skiing, and ice skating in the winter.

Other notable nature attractions include the gardens at Yaddo, a century-old artist's community that's been a retreat for Pulitzer Prize winners such as John Cheever and Sylvia Plath. To explore wildlife in a wetland environment, visit the Bog Meadow Brook Nature Trail three miles from downtown Saratoga Springs.

Just about everyone you encounter mentions the desire to preserve the town's unique character. And despite the presence of Starbucks and The Gap on Broadway, Saratoga Springs manages to retain its fair share of independent merchants.

You certainly won't have any trouble finding equine-esque clothing. You couldn't ignore the smattering of horse-themed items if you tried. Impressions of Saratoga has all the gifts and souvenirs a person could want. And Clotheshorse? Well, it's all in the name.

For something spicy, try Hot Stuff of Saratoga, with over 200 hot sauces and a sweet (albeit semi-sadistic) shopkeeper who'll try and coerce you into sampling some real scorchers. Taste-test at your own risk, and don't say you weren't warned!

Art galleries and unique shops abound in Saratoga Springs. There's Lyrical Ballad, a truly first-class used bookstore filled with antiquarian books and prints. The Crafters Gallery on Broadway features art from regional artists or try The Beekman Street Arts District is also a treasure trove of fine art, shopping and food.

Not surprisingly, horse racing is held in high regard hereabouts, as reflected in two of the city's museums, the National Museum of Racing and Hall of Fame and the Saratoga Harness Hall of Fame. Be sure to check out the exhibitions and memorabilia.

Other museums include the Historical Society Museum, the Children's Museum (conveniently located next to Ben and Jerry's) and the National Museum of Dance, the only institution of its type in the country.

There's plenty to experience on the cultural front. The Tang Teaching Museum and Art Gallery showcases modern art with exhibits and events. The Saratoga Performing Arts Center (pictured left), the summer home of the New York City Ballet and Philadelphia Orchestra, offers a variety of music programs. The Saratoga County Arts Council has an art gallery and performance space.

Farther from central Saratoga Springs are Lake Lonely, Saratoga Lake, and the Saratoga National Historical Park. None of them is accessible by public transportation, but if you're dead set on historic battlefields or water sports, a taxi can help you on your mission.

The Saratoga National Historical Park (which is really in Stillwater) is the home to the Saratoga Battlefield. The four-mile park has interpretive markers explaining important spots. Also part of the park are the General Philip Schuyler House eight miles north in Schuylerville, and the Saratoga Monument in the nearby village of Victory.

 
  SARATOGA SPRINGS LODGING

This is a town with a large number of lodging choices, and most are very close to downtown, the race track and mineral spas. If taking Greyhound, you'll be let off at the the Amtrak train station. Rely on a cab (taxi stand at station) or city bus to bring you into the city.

Popular choices include The Inn at Saratoga, a 42-room modernized Victorian jewel, and the Carriage House Inn with spacious luxury suites in addition to its regular guest rooms.

You'll also find a handful of bed and breakfasts near the racetrack, including the Six Sisters Bed & Breakfast (pictured left). Innkeepers Stephen and Kate, do their best to make your stay a pleasant one. Comfortable rooms are filled with Victorian touches, and some even come with whirlpool tubs and private terraces. You won't want to skip the skillfully prepared breakfast, and if you're lucky you'll find a plate of freshly baked chocolate chip cookies in the living room.

The Gideon Putnam Resort is tranquilly nestled in the midst of Spa State Park. Amenities include golf courses, tennis courts, outdoor pools, trails, and of course, mineral spas. The Holiday Inn - Saratoga Springs is also centrally located.

Also recommended is the The Longfellows Inn Bed & Breakfast, housed in a renovated turn-of-the-century dairy barn. All of the Longfellows Inn guest rooms include a jacuzzi, in-room dining and a continental breakfast. Other options include Community Court at Congress Park, Westchester House Bed & Breakfast, Fox n' Hound Bed & Breakfast, and Geyser Lodge B&B.

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  DINING

Broadway and the adjacent streets are lined with dining options. Festive decor, attentive staff, and excellent American cuisine make Circus Cafe a safer bet than anything you'll try at the racetrack. Uncommon Grounds Coffee and Bagels is the kind of place where you can curl up with The Saratogian (or a good book) and nurse a latte. They have a large selection of coffee and teas, and even bake their own bagels. Health-conscious visitors would do well to stop in Four Seasons Natural Foods Store & Cafè on neighboring Phila Street.

On Phila Street you'll also find Hattie's Restaurant, a Saratoga Springs institution that shouldn't be missed. They've been serving up Southern favorites like catfish, ribs and pork chops since 1938. The famous fried chicken is crisp and near greaseless, the biscuits are flaky as can be, and the yams bear no resemblance to those marshmallow-covered Thanksgiving monstrosities. From the press on the walls, you know you're in good company.

For a swanky dining experience, try Forno Toscano for rustic Italian fare, Tuscan-style, or Wine Bar with an eclectic menu, over 50 wines by the glass, and a cigar-friendly smoking lounge. Both restaurants are located right on Broadway.

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  NIGHTLIFE

Saratoga Springs has a healthy late-night scene, which only increases when the weather warms. Pay special attention to side streets, which are sprinkled with bars, cafes, and clubs. The two blocks east of Broadway, bordered by Phila Street and Caroline Street, are brimming with good bets for evening entertainment.

One Caroline Street Jazz & Blues Bistro offers just that (jazz and blues), and a dose of Cajun food to round things out. Gaffney’s, which features live music and pub fare, has patio dining during the warm weather that is always popular.

Right next to Hattie's, Caffè Lena, the oldest continuously-run coffeehouse in America, features the best in folk and acoustic music. Legends like Bob Dylan and Arlo Guthrie graced the stage before they were stars. Open since 1960, and still going strong.

If knocking back pints and listening to live Irish music is more your style, you won't want to pass up The Parting Glass, located on Lake Avenue (one block north of the main nightlife hub). When I poked around in the middle of the afternoon, the place was filled to the rafters and already in high gear. OK, it was St. Patrick's Day, but I'm sure it's a festive pub any time of year.

Think you're stuck with big blockbusters just because you're in a small city? Think again, because the Saratoga Film Forum brings art-house fare to the locals. Sleepers, foreign flicks, and indie hits screen here Thursdays through Sundays; look for the theater downtown on Broadway.

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  TRANSPORTATION

BUS: Adirondack Trailways offers frequent departures from the Port Authority Bus Terminal at 41st & 8th Ave. in New York City. In Saratoga Springs the agency is located at the Saratoga Springs Amtrak Station at West Ave. & Station Ln
Schedule: Buses run about 5 times a day.
Travel Time: Between 4 and 4-1/2 hours.
Call 800-858-8555 to confirm schedules and fares.

Greyhound has routes from Port Authority to Saratoga Springs.
Saratoga Springs Amtrak Station at West Ave. & Station Ln
Schedule: Buses run about 3 times a day.
Travel Time:
Between 4 and 4-1/2 hours.
Call 800-231-2222 for more information
.

TRAIN: Amtrak's Adirondack line stops at the Saratoga Springs station.
Schedule:
Trains run about three times a day.
Travel Time: Approximately 3 hours and 40 minutes.
Call 1-800-USA-RAIL for details.

CAR: From New York State Thruway (I-90) to Exit 24; 1-87 north on Thruway to Exit 13N.

LOCAL TROLLEY: Tuesday through Sunday, from June to Labor Day, you can catch a trolley that runs from Skidmore College to Spa State Park.

LOCAL BUS: CDTA (Capital District Transportation Authority) Bus #98 runs throughout the city from the train station to Congress Park, and out to the mall.


TAXI: Call Saratoga Central Dispatch at 518-584-2700.

CAR RENTAL: Enterprise is located on Broadway (518-587-0687).

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  TRAVEL TIPS

Plan ahead if you want to go during racing season. Rates double and rooms fill fast!

 


  LINKS

For more information, please visit:

Saratoga County Chamber of Commerce


  MAP

For a detailed map of Saratoga Springs, please click here.


  WEATHER

Photos courtesy of Stephen Ramirez.


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