THINGS TO DO

Divided into North County, South County, Leonardtown and Lexington Park/California area, there's so much to see its hard to decide where to start. Work your way through in a circular motion and you'll absorb all the County has to offer! St. Clement's Island Museum is a great place to start - afterall this is the birthplace of Maryland and landing site of 140 English settlers in 1634. Paying homage to the colonists' desire for religious toleration, this museum displays artifacts from the 17th century, including Native American objects, historic watercraft and a 20-foot mural of the colonists. There's also a one room schoolhouse straight from 1890, a resource library, pier, docking facilities and water taxi to the island.

Historic St. Mary's City (left) boasts over 800 acres of waterfront fields, forests and parkland. A great outdoor "living" museum, it's especially good for children who need to "move" as they learn! The welcome video in the visitor center is a great way to start your explorations. A National Historic Landmark, Historic St. Mary's City has been recognized as one of America's best-preserved colonial archaeology sites. Outdoor exhibits encompass the reconstructed State House of 1676, Smith Ordinary and the Godiah Spray Tobacco Plantation - a working colonial farm. There are also ghost frames throughout the grounds that mark buildings that stood in the 17th century.

Archeologists are still studying these sites. We especially enjoyed stepping aboard a replica of the ship, Maryland Dove. The docent, in period dress, showed us the small quarters where the sailors worked, ate and slept during that months-long voyage. We also opted to rent the audio tour and found out even more about the colonists, their ties to Native Americans, and life in the colony. Before you leave, be sure to stop by The Shop at Farthing's Ordinary. The museum shop has a great and well-priced selection of gifts - from tinware and books, to reproduction glassware and period music.

Sotterley Plantation, (left) located on the banks of the Patuxent River, is an 18th century Tidewater plantation that's well worth a visit. Visitors come from around the country to learn about African-American history, and to see its particular style of post-in-ground architecture. The staff does an excellent job at educating visitors about its rich and diverse history.

Outside, there is an 18th century warehouse and smokehouse and a 19th century slave quarters and schoolhouse. The curators are still uncovering the history of African-American slaves who lived and worked the plantation. Around the quarters, there are still signs how the slaves labored to keep their homes strong with outside posts and dry with trenches.

One look at the view, and you'll see why this was once a successful colonial port. What makes this plantation so unique, is that its history doesn't stand still. Governors, doctors and heiresses have all called this home and each has left their mark; a talented, but notorious carpenter crafted a custom Chinese Chippendale staircase; a drawing room once used only by ladies is adorned with Georgian shell alcoves. It's easy to see why the White House Millennium Council has deemed Sotterley Plantation an "American Treasure."

If shopping is a must on your trip, stop by Cecil's Old Mill in Great Mills. It features local artists and craftwares, housed in a delightful historical saw and grist mill. Leonardtown is also a great spot for local arts and gifts. Owned and operated by Southern Maryland artists, the North End Gallery sells paintings, drawings, pottery, sculpture and other fine and decorative art. Old Towne Crafters is another great place to peruse and try Fenwick Street Used Books and Music for great finds.

Actually, Leonardtown is where St. Mary's County seems to really be flourishing. One of the oldest incorporated towns in Maryland, it is graced with one of the state's few remaining town squares. This is where quaint bookshops and restaurants line the streets -and there's more to come! Developers are also beginning to build waterfront parkland, housing, shops and restaurants. One of the town's museums is housed in the Old County Jail, which was built in the mid-1800's and used more for overnight stays than criminal detention. Today, it's the St. Mary's County Historical Society. Local legend has it that in 1697, townsfolk burnt down the house of suspected resident witch Molly Dyer. She froze to death, leaving her permanent handprint on a rock that now sits outside the jailhouse.

From yesterday's military history to cutting edge technology, St. Mary's County has something for everyone. On the southern side of the county, visit the Point Lookout Lighthouse and Civil War Prison. The peninsula formed by the Chesapeake Bay and Potomac River make a perfect spot to swim, boat, fish and camp. But its history is not so pretty. It was once the prison for more than 50,000 Confederate solders during the Civil War. The on-site museum tells the harsh life story of men who froze to death in the winters and battled heat in the summers. Some were said to have gone blind from the white sand of its shores. Two monuments stand in memory of those who died there. This is one of St. Mary's County Maryland Civil War Trail Markers. If you're looking for more lighthouse exploring, go to Piney Point Lighthouse, Park & Museum (left). Built in 1836, it is the first permanent lighthouse constructed on the Potomac River. The area was a resort in the 1800 and 1900's; past presidents even vacationed at Piney Point. Military buffs and sport divers will be interested in displays and artifacts from MarylandÌs first historic shipwreck in the on-site museum.

The Patuxent Naval Air Museum is the country's only museum devoted to naval aviation research, development, testing and evaluation. Recently opened in its new site, exhibits include 17 naval aircraft, including the F/A-18 Hornet, the P-14 Tomcat, the AV-8B Harrier, the CH-35 Sea Stallion helicopter and S-2 Tracker. You can also learn how ejection seats and flight helmets were developed.

BEACHES: Outdoor adventure is a natural pull to St. Mary's County with 400 miles of shoreline and over 8,000 acres of parkland. From swimming to boating, bird watching to biking, there's plenty to keep you busy. Point Lookout State Park is an extensive beach with posted lifeguards, restrooms, bathhouse, first aid station, picnic facilities and playground. Greenwell State Park, Hollywood & St. Clement's Island State Park, Colton's Point offer beach areas with access to the water, but there are no lifeguards.

BOATING: Chesapeake Bay Field Lab on St. George's Island invites you to climb aboard a working skipjack and dredge for oysters, catch crabs, and learn a real life natural history lesson. Cruise from Point Lookout to Smith Island, stay overnight and on to Crisfield with the package offered by Smith Island Cruises. St. Clements's Island Water Taxi gets you to Maryland's birthplace quickly. Samuel M. Bailey Tours offer a 44-passenger cruise on one of the few oyster-buy boats still in service. There are also numerous places to canoe and kayak.

BIRDING: One of the guests at our bed and breakfast had come all the way from Chicago to bird watch! It's easy to see why as Southern Maryland has a variety of bird-friendly, feathered habitats that invite waterfowl in the winter and spring, and migrants in the fall. Check with the Southern Maryland Audubon Society for details.

FISHING: If the words rockfish, croaker, flounder, bluefish, sea trout and spot equal a good time, St. Mary's County just may be your version of heaven. Fishing starts in late April and lasts through December. Numerous charter boat and head boat captains area available to take you trolling, chumming, or bottom fishing. And remember, Maryland requires a Chesapeake Bay sport fishing or freshwater license. You can purchase one at local tackle shops.

HIKING & BIKING: With this many beautiful outdoor vistas, it's only natural that St. Mary's County is a great place to explore by foot or bike. Whether you're ready for a short walk or a 40-mile expedition, the county has a lot to offer. A short three-mile trail takes you through Historic St. Mary's City. Get some history with your exercise at Point Lookout State Park where its 1,000 acres are peppered with Civil War markers. Mountain bikers and hikers will be pleasantly surprised with the nine-mile course around St. Mary's River State Park. Greenwell State Park in Hollywood has five marked trails for hikers and horseback riders and the the 40-acre island of St. Clement's provides another historical walk. Speedway Racing is also big here! Head to the Budds Creek Speedway to get your fix!

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LODGING

A large number of chain hotels and motels serve both leisure and business visitors. They include: Comfort Hotel, Best Western, Days Inn, Extended Stay America, Hampton Inn and a Fairfield Inn in Lexington Park. In California, you'll find Sleep Inn, Super 8 Motel and in Charlotte Hall, you'll find the Charlotte Hall Motel.

Innkeepers Lisa and Michael Kelley first came to the Brome Howard Inn in 1995. Three years later they restored the Inn which now regularly ranks as one of the area's top bed and breakfasts. The 1840 farmhouse offers two cozy dining rooms, complete with fireplaces, large windows and beautiful views. There are five large bedrooms with access to the parlor that offers TV, games, piano, and library. Guests can use bicycles to explore close wooded and beach trails. Michael's cuisine is described as "sophisticated with an astute use of local and regional ingredients and innovative recipes." The day we visited Lisa was hosting a preteen birthday party she had organized around a Harry Potter theme. The grounds are beautiful and guests must feel as though they've really "gotten away from it all." The restaurant is also open to the public for dinner.

Built in the 1930's, Camp Merryeland on St. George's Island was originally a girls camp. Today, it's a family getaway. The Camp offers beachfront cottages with kitchens, bathrooms, TV and air conditioning. They range from one- to five-bedroom facilities. On-site, enjoy a lighted volleyball court and fishing pier.

The Hale House Bed & Breakfast in Scotland has three rooms, each with private entrance and bath and use of an onsite pool and practice tee. Also in Scotland, St. Michael's Manor Bed & Breakfas overlooks Long Neck Creek. Built in 1805, its four rooms offer water views. Two rooms have their own private baths. Innkeepers Joe and Nancy Dick charmed us with their hospitality and graciousness. Nancy offered homemade cookies and Joe was proud to share wine from his onsite three-acre vineyard. Both are very knowledgeable about the area. Their guests enjoy biking, canoeing, paddle boating, row boating and bird watching in the marsh.

Myrtle Point Bed & Breakfast in California is located on the banks of the Patuxent River. A three-story farmhouse with two bedrooms and private baths, there is an enclosed porch with Jacuzzi, fireplaces, a private beach and boat dock.

Bards Field of Trinity Manor in Ridge was built in 1798 and exemplifies traditional "Tidewater Architecture." Guests can stay in three rooms, all with queen size beds and a shared bath. Activities include boating, fishing, crabbing and bird watching, and access to nearby historic attractions. Also in Ridge, The Creekside Inn has two bedrooms, each with a private bath and water views. Many dining options and tourist attractions are located within walking distance. A large continental breakfast is included.

The Victorian Candle in Hollywood is located near Sotterley Plantation and features seven queen rooms, full bath and full breakfast. Guests can enjoy a front porch, exercise room and hot tub.

For the minimalist, did we mention there are campsites galore in St. Mary's County? Don't miss out!

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DINING

Whenever you're near the Chesapeake Bay, you can be sure the dining will be delightful. From the finest restaurants serving French cuisine to neighborhood establishments that expertly prepare local favorites, St. Mary's County won't disappoint.

In 1963 Robert (Bugs) Evans and his wife Agnes, and their 10 children, started what has become known as one of the best seafood restaurants in the Southern Maryland region. Today, Evans Seafood (left) at St. George Island, maintains that reputation, serving seafood, steaks and stuffed ham. Waterfront dining and carryout are available.

Cafe des Artistes in Leonardtown, is the creation of Loic Jaffres, a French chef straight from Washington D.C.'s most renowned restaurants. With his wife Karleen, the two have turned out a casual, friendly restaurant that pleases its customers with inspired, delicious food and regular entertainment. It's a french restaurant with an American accent! Nook & Monks Restaurant and Theatre looks like a place you could spend a lot of time. Go there for breakfast, lunch and dinner specialties, gourmet coffees, sandwiches and desserts. Two more casual Leonardtown establishments are Crab Knockers Seafood, a fresh seafood market for takeout only, and the Do Dah Deli which offers delectable sandwiches, salads, soups and pastries. If you are looking for Chinese food, Leonardtown offers the Happy Dragon Chinese Restaurant.

Even if you're not staying at The Brome-Howard Inn in St. Mary's City, you owe it to yourself to have dinner there. Chef Michael Kelley's talents include roasted breast of duck, filet mignon, jumbo shrimp wrapped in leek, and grilled halibut with shrimp and shiitake compote. Just be sure to make a reservation and get ready for a memorable meal!

In Hollywood, we went to local favorite Clarke's Landing Restaurant. The view of the creek and bridge was spectacular, but it was the relaxed atmosphere that made this a place to appreciate. The servers were attentive and friendly and the food was simple yet dependably tasty.

Mechanicsville offers Bert's 50's Diner, a place to relive the fifties while enjoying subs, sandwiches, pizza, full course dinner entrees, soft and hand dipped ice cream and shakes. Cape St. Mary's Marina is also great for waterfront and outside dining.

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NIGHTLIFE

Enjoy a variety of free outdoor events from late spring until fall, or head to a local pub or restaurant for live entertainment. Be sure to check the
event calendar.

TRANSPORTATION

CAR: From New York City, follow I-95 South I-295 to I-495 Beltway through Washington D.C. to Route 4 South to Route 235 South. From the Baltimore Beltway (I-695), take Rt. 301 south to Route Route 5 South.

Travel time from NYC to Leonardtown, MD - 5.5 hours
Travel time from Baltimore to Leonardtown, MD - 2 hours
Travel time from Washington D.C. to Leonardtown, MD - 1.5 hours

TRAIN: Amtrak to Washington D.C then see bus info.

BUS/LOCAL BUS: Weekdays Only! From Washington D.C. at Metro Center Station take #905 Keller Bus to Charlotte Hall or St. Mary's Airport in California. From there you can connect with the local
St. Mary's Transit System, that makes stops in Leonardtown, and Lexington Park.

BIKE: Many B&B's offer bikes for their guests use.

CAR RENTAL: Rent a car in Washington D.C. From there Leonardtown is 1.5 hours.

AIR: Got a private plane? Swoop into St. Mary's Airport!

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LINKS

Maryland's official website

MAP

For a detailed map of St. Mary's County, please click here.