THINGS TO DO

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"Take a journey into yesteryear" with the Essex Steam Train & Riverboat. Enjoy the beautiful views of the Connecticut River Valley in these historic modes of transportation, complete with narration describing the history and sights along the way. The trip takes two and a half hours for the train and the steamboat. You can even enjoy a meal in the dining car on the train! The steam train is a bit of a westward walk from the hub of the town (off Saybrook Road/Route 154), but definitely worth the trip. And of course, taking a taxi is always an option too.

Main Street and Pratt Street, where a lot of the local businesses are located, stretch along the peninsula which make up Essex Village. In fact, the Essex Historical Society promotes a one and a half mile walking tour in this section of town—which is very informative.

There are many antiques shops in Essex and the surrounding area, including Bonsal-Douglas Antiques, Hastings House Antiques and Valley Farm Antiques. In Centerbrook (about one mile west of Essex), you'll find Brush Factory Antiques, a 33-dealer shop. Stop into Centerbridge Books, also located in Centerbrook, for those rare and hard to find books.

For some local gift shops, art galleries and clothing stores, take a stroll down Main Street. The Essex Mariner is a great place to get anything nautical. Shop for clothes at Classical Rags or Silkworm. Go to Tia Smith Custom Stationery Photography to get stationery with scenes from the Connecticut River Valley.

For the architecture buffs, just walk down Main Street and discover the Steamboat Dockhouse, which houses the Connecticut River Museum. The museum, located on the riverbank, offers a unique glimpse of maritime history. Come see the vast range of exhibits, from the only full scale working reproduction of the Turtle, a Civil War submarine, to the piano keys that used to be made in Ivoryton.

The Dauntless Club marks the site where the Oliver Cromwell was constructed, the first Connecticut warship built for the Continental Navy. In addition to these buildings, enjoy all the beautiful houses, and just a short walk from the historic district, the Pratt House, an historical landmark.

The Essex Historical Society operates two museums, the Pratt House (pictured left) and Hill's Academy (currently under rennovation). The Pratt House, the first part of which was built in 1701, is a microcosm of the town's growth, according to the town historian, Don Malcarne, who is a fascinating well of knowledge. The house's gradual expansion reflected the growth of the town, and the history of its inhabitants. Stop in weekends between June and Labor Day, and maybe you'll be lucky enough to learn some of the history of Essex in this fascinating house.

Just beyond the Pratt House, you'll see Cross Lots on West Avenue. They offer 16 acres of land and 17 different walking trails. Cross Lots features a variety of terrain, from open fields to wooded swamp. If you're seeking more outdoorsy pursuits, a few miles south of the historic district, you'll find Turtle Creek Preserves. The wildlife sanctuary with tidal marshes and nature trails, is off Route 154 near the Essex-Old Saybrook border.

The Essex region has always been popular for all kinds of boating and fishing. There's a Connecticut River Estuary Canoe/Kayak Trail at Essex Town Park on Main Street (maps available at Town Hall). The only hitch is there aren't any canoe or kayak rentals in town—serious paddlers will have to bring their own.

If you're feeling sporty, tennis courts are available for use and are located behind the Town Hall. Bicycle rentals (as well as groceries, laundry services and video rentals) are available from the Village Provision Company on Main Street.

LODGING

The only lodging in Essex proper is the Griswold Inn. Located on the waterfront in downtown Essex, it is famous for its historic atmosphere, beautiful rooms and delicious meals. It has been in continuous operation since 1776, making it one of the oldest operating inns in America. Rates start at $90/night.

Another option is to stay in Old Saybrook, and take a taxi into Essex. The Deacon Timothy Pratt House Bed & Breakfast will pick you up at the train station. Prices begin at $100/night.

If you're driving, the Copper Beech Inn in Ivoryton, is a beautiful old house, once owned by an ivory importer. Their French country restaurant is consistently named one of the best in Connecticut. Rooms start at $100/night.

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DINING

The Crow's Nest is a local favorite for breakfast and lunch. Sit on the deck during the warmer months and enjoy the view of the river. Also, between Memorial Day and Labor Day, the Crow's Nest will be open for dinner Saturday and Sunday nights.

For coffee, pastries and "the largest selection of model ships between New Haven and Cape Cod," try Essex Coffee & Tea Company in Griswold Square. If you're on the run, grab something to go from Olive Oyl's Carry-Out Cuisine.

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NIGHTLIFE

Want a late-night drink? Stop into Oliver's Taverne for a bit. Try the ribs or a steak dinner, and enjoy sports on the TV.

The Black Seal Seafood Grille is perfect for that seafood craving—and they also offer entertainment Wednesday through Sunday nights.

There's some very good local theatre and musical production companies in the Essex area, but be prepared to take a taxi. If you're car-less, it's more than a casual stroll. Try the historic Ivoryton Playhouse (off of Main Street/Route 154) for some quality entertainment. The Goodspeed Opera House, located in East Haddam (about eight miles from town) is also worth a visit.

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TRANSPORTATION

As you know, public transportation in CT is lacking. If you are car-less, on a budget and want to go to Essex on the weekend, transportation is possible—but timing is everything!

The most convenient route is to take Amtrak to Old Saybrook and then take a taxi.

However, your cheapest route is to take Metro-North to New Haven up Friday and catch the Connecticut Commuter Rail train to Old Saybrook. Then catch a taxi to Essex—a few minutes away. Since Connecticut Commuter Rail does not run on weekends, you'll take a taxi from Essex back to Old Saybrook and take Amtrak back to the city on Saturday or Sunday. Of course you can go RT on Metro-North if you go up mid-week.

TRAIN:
METRO-NORTH goes as far as New Haven from Grand Central Station. From there a Connecticut Commuter Rail train can take you to Old Saybrook. Once in Old Saybrook, call the Essex Limousine Service (see below) to take you to Essex.

Schedule: Metro-North runs several times a day (about twice an hour during the week), but CCR doesn't run on weekends.

Travel Time: About two hours and 50 minutes for the first leg, and an additional 50 minutes for the second.

Call 1-800-METRO-INFO for details.

Steam Train and Riverboat Ride
Package includes discount round-trip rail fare, motorcoach transportation, ride on Steam Train, Riverboat Ride, driver and tour director gratuities. Take Metro North's New Haven Line to New Haven Station. A motorcoach meets a designated AM and PM train to take you to and from the site. Call 800-247-5457 for details and reservations (which should be made two weeks in advance).

AMTRAK makes regular stops at Old Saybrook, just a few minutes away from Essex. Board at Penn Station in Manhattan and take the train ride to Old Saybrook. Once in Old Saybrook, call the Essex Limousine Service (see below).

Schedule: Trains run about six times a day.

Travel Time: Approximately two and a half hours.

Call 1-800-USA-RAIL for details.

BUS:
CT TRANSIT:This is not really a viable option (we looked into it) since you'd have to take one bus from the New Haven RR station to downtown New Haven to catch another bus to Old Saybrook. Plus, it only drops you at a nursing home in Old Saybrook, and only on the weekdays. So much for that!

CAR:
By car from New York City, take Interstate 95 to Exit 69 at Old Saybrook to Route 9 North. Take Exit 3 to Essex.

CAR RENTAL:
Another option is to rent a car in Old Saybrook, and use it to get around. Enterprise has a rental center at 225 Middlesex Turnpike. 860-395-0758.

TAXI:
Essex Limousine Service: 860-767-2152 or 800-864-2651. They also service the airports from Chester/Goodspeed to Groton/New London to Tweed/New Haven and Bradley International, outside of Hartford.

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TRAVEL TIPS

Remember your camera and extra film for the Essex Steam Train & Riverboat.

LINKS

For more information:

Visit Connecticut

MAP

For a detailed map of Essex, please click here.